Cold photography
CategoriesBlog, Photography, Tips by

Cold Weather Photography: How to (Safely!) Take Photos in the Cold

1. Dress appropriately

If you follow the amazing images of cold weather, you should dress appropriately.

It does not matter if the light is good and the place looks good by lowering the jaws; if you get snow on your fingers and can’t use the camera, you won’t get a picture

So what should you wear? The details depend on the weather, but I am a big supporter of the layers. When I wear my winter photo gowns, I feel like an onion, because I wear long underwear, and then a wool jersey or wool trousers, and then a low-rise or synthetic vest, an 800-fill jacket with a hood, airtight. Thinsulate trousers, two pairs of thick woolen socks embroidered with expedition quality winter boots, a musher-style hat full of earrings, a balaclava or face mask, and nimble gloves with a pair of extra hangers hanging from the wrists. And I would often throw a few chemical hand warmers in the pockets of my jacket.

cold weather photographers properly dressed

2. Take care of your batteries

A cold battery will not work as a warm battery – so on a very cold day, your camera and flash batteries will only last only a short time.
To prevent any problems, here’s what you need to do:

1. Make sure your batteries are fully charged before you go out to shoot. Each battery must be fully charged and ready for use, since every drop of electricity is essential.

2. Carry as many backup batteries as possible. You can purchase extra batteries from all standard photo vendors (though make sure they fit your specific camera model!). You could also consider purchasing batteries from outside companies.

3. Keep all your backup batteries in your inner jacket pocket. You can even replace the dead batteries in your camera later in a warm pocket, and they will let you shoot for a few more minutes. I find that I can shoot at extremely cold temperatures the best part of the day by riding two batteries and back and forth from my pocket to my camera, although the details will vary, depending on your camera’s power requirements.

aurora with person silhouette
3. Do not breathe near your lens

Have you ever tried to breathe your lens too cold? Don’t do it. Be careful where you breathe. When rotating your camera to check lens settings, do not exhale. And if you stand in front of your camera, do not let the air in the wrong direction.

camera with frosty lens

4. Use your lens cap

Although fog lenses are often the result of breathing or sudden changes in temperature, when shot at night, there is always the possibility that natural frost will form.

To avoid this, close your lens cap if you are not shooting. Make it a practice to use that lens whenever you take a break, want a new make-up, or move from one place to another.

Personally, when I go out shooting aurora at night, my cap is on my lens, even if I only walk a short distance to a new shooting area.

5. Close your gear before returning inside

Did you know that moving from a cold place to a hot spot can cause congestion in glass? That is why the mirrors are often filled with fog when they arrive from the cold, and why, on a hot day, a glass of cold beer collects a summary.

For lenses, this can be very problematic. A cold lens fitted directly inside will be foggy, so you will not be able to use it for any home photos – and excess moisture can lead to grease, oil, and possibly even fungus on the front part of the lens.

Cold weather photography: last words

The cold scares many photographers, and rightly so. But with a few safety precautions – bringing warm clothes, charging backup batteries, avoiding frostbite, and turning on the rotation – you can keep your gear safe, and you can still take lots of great photos along the way!

Street Photography
CategoriesPhotography by

Ultimate Guide to Street Photography 2022

What is street photography?

 

Think of “street pictures,” and you will often think of a picture of a stranger walking on the street in a city like New York, London, or Tokyo. But while these images are a major part of street photography, the genre is actually very expandable.

You see, street photography is about taking vivid images of human life and nature. It is our way of showing the world around us and the way we as photographers relate to it.

people walking street photography

Principles of street photography

I will not add sugar: Street photography is disturbing. Photographing people openly often means that you do not have their permission before.

To make street photos, you will need to agree to this. Every time you hit the shutter, there is a chance that your title will be interrupted. Some will not worry, but others will.

That is the moral cost of taking street photos. Most of us do it because we love people, and we love to explore, and we love to photograph culture. A camera is just a way to capture the moments we see and enjoy. The photos we take are priceless – current and historical. If you look at pictures from 1920, 1950, 1970, or even 15 years ago, which ones are the most interesting? Often, they are the ones who connect people with cultures. Those are the images that most viewers find attractive because they offer a wide range of cultures.

However, it is up to you to decide if the street pictures are right for you. Yes, it does provide benefits – but the costs are real, too.

How to overcome your fear of photographing people

Fear is one of the biggest obstacles you can overcome for street photographers. Beginners often think, “What if my article sees me? How will they feel? Will they go crazy? How will they react? ”

But an important point to keep in mind is that arrest should not be so serious.

Think of the first time a comedian has detonated bombs on stage. Once it is done, it is over, and they no longer have to worry. Similarly, someone will see you take a picture of him, and it is important that you talk to him.

Lastly, consider starting a busy area, such as a convenient location or market. It’s a great way to get past the first hump because you’ll be invisible – and as you progress, you can move on to different locations.

Are street photos legal? Street shooting and law

In some places, taking street photographs without permission is illegal. Some places make it impossible to take street pictures at all, while in other places photographers may ignore the rules. In some lands, street photographers continue to take photographs of real people, but only when a person’s face is invisible.

New York City bridges

Getting started with street photography: 3 simple tips

Later, I will discuss some of the technical ideas for street photography, but I want to start with a few very useful tips.

1. Find a good location and wait

This is the best street photo tip I can give you:

Look for a beautiful place. And if you find one, just wait.
If you just shoot it away, you will encounter many beautiful places – but you will only give it a moment to take the right picture. Instead, find a good location … and wait for the right moment. By hanging in one place, you will be able to focus your attention on one area, and you will be right with your camera.

2. After shooting, keep the camera up

Take your camera, then take a picture.

What have you done with your hand? Many photographers, once photographed, will drop their arms down and let their cameras hang. And this is what makes people rich; it clearly shows that you have taken their picture.

So make a conscious effort to correct your behavior. After taking the picture, do not drop your arm. Instead, hold the camera in place until the interviewer exits the scene. That way, your article will assume that you were shooting recently and that they were on their way.

Graffiti selfie

3. Take a photo of where you live

What are the best places to take street pictures? Many beginners believe that, in order to get a good shot, they need a “interesting” shooting area, such as New York City or London.

But here’s the truth: You don’t need a crowded place to take interesting street photos. The best photographers can take great pictures anywhere.

The best street photography equipment

You can take street pictures with any type of camera. You can do it with a DSLR, a mirrorless camera, a point and photograph camera, even a smartphone. You can do it with any type of lens, too: heavy zoom, small prime, or something in between.

That is to say, different machines offer some advantages. The zoom lens will allow you to capture the most obvious opportunities at different distances but it will be harder, more visible, and even more difficult. The main lens will limit you to a single focal length but will also be easier, more comfortable, and more fun to use.

A final guide to street photography: last words

Now that you have completed this street photography guide, you are now able to take great pictures.
So grab a camera and get out! Remember, you do not need to shoot in hot spots, and you do not need high gear. Instead, just learn to look – and capture what you see!

Photography tips
CategoriesBlog, Photography, Tips by

Writing A Photographer Bio for Your Website

Writing about yourself can be difficult. It is not easy to identify your characteristics and then summarize them in a clean and concise manner. And this is especially true if you are writing a scanner history for your website.

A bio page is an important part of your website. It is something potential customers will look for to get an idea of ​​the person behind the pictures.

In this post, we will help you write a good photographer history for your professional website. We have tips, suggestions, do’s and don’ts for a complete history.

a photographer taking a photo of a sunset over a mountain range
Need a Bio Page on Your Website?

The short answer is yes. As a photographer, you may think that your portfolio speaks for itself. A large part of your website will be dedicated to your photography work, but the bio page also plays an important role in your website.

Your portfolio is your store window. It shows what you can offer as a photographer. But a good bio introduces the viewer to the shop owner behind the glass. It adds heart and depth, indicating that it is more than just a storefront. It shows that you are a fully trained photographer.
No matter how good your images are, the lack of a personal page can leave your website feeling old and flat. A good gallery will make people look good, but potential customers want to know the photographer behind the pictures.

The bio can take the form of the “About Me” page. Some photographers prefer to have their own bio on the home page of their website, serving as an introduction to them and their work. Both options work well.

Do not hide the personal category in the dark depths of your website. It should not be the first thing visitors see, but it should be easy to find. It is something that clients and enthusiasts will look for.

How to Write a Photo Bio

We will now go into the nuts and bolts of your website’s scanner history. We will give you some important suggestions, as well as some things you can and should not do.

Of course, you should avoid typing and system errors. But we will look at the best points to write a bio of the best photos.

a flat lay photo of someone typing on their laptop on a wooden table
Keep It Easy

Your photographer history provides a first impression of new customers and participants in your work. They want to get a taste of who you are and how you work. They do not want to get lost in the metaphorical process.

Use simple language and stay on topic. Avoid long, complex sentences with unnecessary punctuation. Be short, and do not be carried away. He writes a photographic bio, not Ulysses.

For simple sentence structure, see Ernest Hemingway. Or, if you do not have time to read the book Farewell To Arms, use the Hemingway Editor app. It will help you narrow down your portable corridors, and they are free to use.

Grammarly is another excellent writing tool. The app highlights system errors and spelling errors, which means you can’t ignore any problems before publishing history online.

Keep your sentences simple and concise. Specify and stay on topic.

Don’t get carried away by your language. Avoid complex or unnecessary punctuation.

Introduce yourself

The first sentence is important when writing a bio. It introduces you as a professional and sets the tone for what is to come. The reader will know if he wants to continue after just a few words.

Use the first sentences to introduce yourself. Tell the learner your name and what you are doing. You can also add additional details, such as your location. But do not rush.

Start with your professional name or handle. The term “photographer” is very broad, so you will need to specify. Are you a sports or wildlife photographer? Or is filming your thing?

Specify what you do as a professional photographer. But keep it short and fun. The reader does not need to know which camera you are using or your favorite movie stock.

Make it clear and accessible. Treat it like a personal introduction, keeping it short and fun.Do not enter too many details or rush.

a photographer looking at the settings of her camera mounted on a tripod
Let Your Personality Shine In Your Bio

Many photographers keep their bios legitimate and very authentic. Some people like to use humor to make their bio more memorable. You can go either way, as long as you express yourself naturally.

This is your photographer’s history. Names need to be linked to your entire website without the negative image of employers.
If you are an honest professional, forget the jokes and stick to the facts. If your photography career is full of fun, feel free to add humor. Be careful not to overdo it. Remember, photography is your business.

When you think of style, be confident in yourself. Don’t force jokes on your bio if you don’t make fun. And don’t stress the simple side of your personality if you do.

Conclusion

Writing a complete photographer’s history is not easy. You need to give a good account of yourself as a person and a photographer. You have to balance between information and importance.

New clients want to know more about you and your job, but they do not want a life story. Write only about the things that are relevant to your job as a photographer. A professional website, not a dating profile.

I hope we have provided you with the information you need to begin writing your complete photographer history for your website.

hard drive
CategoriesPhotography by

Everything You Need to Know About Hard Drives for Photographers

Image storage is very important to consider. Hard drives are a common choice, as they come with plenty of space and a decent speed of reading and writing. Portable drives, for example, provide storage on the go. Keep reading to get all the information you need about hard drive photographers.

Common Hard Drive Questions

Inside and Out — What Is the Difference?

There are two types you can buy — indoor and outdoor. When we say ‘internal’ we mean inside your computer, inside a PC tower, or attached to your motherboard. These do not have a casing, as they usually live in a well-protected area.

Your PC needs an internal hard drive to operate. The hard drive serves as the ultimate device for your computer applications and operating system. Most PCs have several internal hard drives, giving you extra storage.

Internal hard drives are available for purchase and expansion as you see fit. This is for PC only. Mac makes it very difficult to replace an internal hard drive, in that case. Although impossible — some users have changed their primary HHD to their MacBook Pros to get a faster SSD.

For most Macs and laptops, there is only enough space for one hard drive. The hard drive needs to be connected unless additional storage is required. Here, you have the option of a portable, extended, or backup hard drive system. To make things even more confusing, you can use internal hard drives as external storage. You can use a fenced area or docking station to allow your computer to connect to hard drives. These are cheaper options and can be much larger than the last exterior stand-alone options. They have some weaknesses, so consider them when you decide.

Photo of an external hard drive sitting on top of a laptop

Best External Hard Drive for Photographers?

The external hard drive is very important for photographers. As new technologies emerge, larger decisions allow you to make full use of details and colors.

However, with a good resolution, it comes with a large file size. Today, digital images can capture up to, and exceed, 82 MB per shot. The raw file from the Sony a7R III will achieve this easily. It means that with a 16GB card, you can expect to take about 200 photos.

This can be a few days of photography if you are a photographer of the world. There are 256 GB CF or 1 TB SD cards you can use with your digital camera, but who wants to surround all their photos? What happens when you are outside and away from your backup hard drive at home? A local wedding can lead to thousands of photos in a few days. You need a way to keep them.

Camera memory cards are more expensive compared to external hard drives. For external hard drives, there are three different styles. It has backup hard drives, portable hard drives, and external hard drives.

Which Seagate Is Better Or WD External Hard Drive?

Seagate and Western Digital are two of the most popular HDD manufacturers and end-to-end SSD devices.

There is little difference between what they do and what they do. They have to be similar in both respects because of their competitiveness in the market.

However, each one will have reviews based on their quality, reliability, speed, and failure levels. This is similar to looking at two 85mm f / 1.4 lenses made by two different manufacturers.

Some users claim that Western Digital has a low failure rate. Some say they have no problem with hard drive manufacturers.

Photo of Seagate and Western Digital hard drives

What To Look For In Hard Drive?

HDD or SSD?

Here, we look at cost and speed. The hard drive is very common and can work well.

The HDD uses magnetic heads to read and write and is limited in its speed. The ultimate SSD device uses bright memory and can read and write very quickly. SSD storage format is most effective on laptops.

Many users switch their internal CD drives or HDDs to get a faster SSD storage system. Hard Disk Drives are cheaper versions than smaller SSD siblings. You will need to pay for a faster literacy system.

Mac or Windows?

There are differences between Mac and Windows. Another big difference is the last platform they use.

If you’ve ever tried to connect a Windows-enabled storage device to a Mac, you know what I mean. Cross-platform storage is a bit complicated and often fails. Mac can read Windows file system formats, but not the other way around. Mac uses Mac OS Extended on all four different types but also gives you the option to format exrAT and FAT drives.

If you have a Windows operating system, you will need to configure your hard drive in Windows format. Another option is to try and format the drive to work on both Mac and Windows.

opened up hard drive so you can see the motherboard

Read or Write?

There are two ways you can use your last resource — reading and writing. Reading means pulling information and data from your hard drive. Typing allows you to save data to your storage device. Are you planning to use your hard drive to back up your photos?

Then you will need faster-writing speed. Reading speed will help those who want to edit photos sitting on their HDD. Knowing what you will need will guide you in the right direction when it comes to buying or using a hard drive. Knowing when you need faster speeds will help you find the right HDD or SSD. The 7200 RPM HDD will give you 80-160MB per second. The 5400 RPM HDD will give you about 100MB per second. But an SSD will give you speeds of anywhere between 200 and 550 MB per second.

Conclusion

There’s a lot to consider when choosing the best hard drive for photographers. There are tons of different hard drives with different reading and writing speeds, storage capacities, backup protection—the list goes on and on.

I hope this article has helped you learn about hard drives to help you make the best decision for which one you need.

 

best camera 2022
CategoriesPhotography by

Best Cameras for Concert Photography

Taking your camera to a concert would be a good idea. When you think about it, concerts offer a large set with wide lights and budget for special effects. Somehow, the photographer’s playground. Today, we will explore what makes the best concert camera.
This list will cover a wide range of different levels. We will pass through professional DSLR cameras for photographers down in the media holes. We will be looking at integrated start-up cameras that will handle a moving crowd. And we’ll look at some of the camera bodies in the middle.

Best Concert Photo Cameras for 2022

For each camera, I will provide three key elements for concert photography:

• Pixels (MP), which show the quality of the output image
• Portable weight
• ISO range for low light conditions
At the end of this list, you will get to know the best concert cameras!

1. Sony A7 III

• 25.3MP
• 650g
• ISO 50 – 204,800 (extended)
The new Sony A7 version is ready to get the best shot of action while you are in a challenging situation facing many concerts. A mirrorless, fully automatic camera with more than enough features to help you. The controls you get make it the best camera for taking concert photos.

Body of Sony A7 III as a best camera for concert photography

2. Canon EOS 5D Mark IV

• 30.4MP
• 890g
• ISO 100 – 102,400 (extended)

Since its inception, the Canon 5D range has provided the technical level of DSLRs. With advanced technology that reduces machine size, the Canon 5D IV is closer to the top of the list.

Its improved weather closure means it is an excellent outdoor company or open stadium. But, its biggest selling point is the image quality and tone range you get from its sense of the perfect full frame. You have 61 autofocus (AF) points to choose from, as well as 4K video. This means that you can produce a live concert video that should be shown as a movie.

Body of Canon EOS 5D Mark IV as a best camera for concert photography

3. Nikon D7500

• 20.9MP
• 720g
• ISO 100 – 1,640,000 (extended)

The Nikon D7500 is a mid-range concert camera. It has a cropping sensor (part frame), so it won’t give you as much tone as a full frame camera. But, it has excellent features that can set it above most DSLRs with a full frame.

One of these features is its excellent autofocus system. The system has a face recognition feature. It is a useful feature in complex situations such as taking concert photos. It also has 51 autofocus (AF) points to choose from.

Body of Nikon D7500 as a best cheap camera for concert photography

4. Panasonic Lumix S5

• 24MP
• 714g
• ISO 100 – 51,200 (extended)

The Panasonic Lumix S5 is for photographers who do not want the bulk of the DSLR body. Who would have thought that Panasonic could pack so many wonderful features in a shiny environment?

I love the idea of ​​discovering its AI focus. This is a new feature where you can set the camera to look for specific details to focus on. To date, they have provided this feature for faces, eyes, bodies, and animals. If that doesn’t work for you, you still have 225 autofocus (AF) points to choose from.

Body of Panasonic Lumix S5 as a best camera for concert photography

5. Canon EOS 90D

• 32.5MP
• 701g
• ISO 100 – 51,200 (extended)

The Canon’s 90D is an amazingly powerful DSLR with a custom cut-out camera. It is one of the best cameras for sports and wildlife. Also, I would say that those genres are transferred to concert photos very well.

The way the camera handles focus tracking is what gives it the edge. This allows you to keep your eyes on the topic… that dream person in your favorite band… all the time. 32.5 megapixels is not a bad feature either. It tops the list of cameras that produce high-quality images.

Canon EOS 90D DSLR as a best camera for concert photography

6. Nikon D3300

• 24.2MP
• 460g
• ISO 100 – 12,800

The Nikon D3300 is a fully-fledged semi-professional camera for concert photography. It is small, picks up a good range of lenses, and packs an amazing, powerful sensor for such a small camera. It provides professional, quality images for your title and can be a benefit as you have a bright camera, too.

The D3300 has a straightforward interface. This means that it will be easier to remember when key buttons are in low light mode. Communication can be difficult to pass on to people with large hands as it is a compact DSLR.

Nikon D3300 semi-professional DSLR camera for concert photography

Conclusion

Capturing concert photos is a theme based on your ability to interpret the emotions of live music you hear. You can do this by getting in touch with the artists to convey their feelings. Or you could photograph the atmosphere of lights with people in nature. All of the cameras mentioned above are borrowed from this style of photography.

After reading this list, you should get the best concert camera shots available in your price range. Remember to read their features. Think carefully about what kind of pictures you will take while you are filming. If you think about it a lot now, you won’t have to think about it when you shoot!

nikon lens
CategoriesBlog, Lens by

Nikon Lens Abbreviations and What They Mean

To find out the features of your Nikon lens, you can check out the lens manual or read abstracts around the lens. The alphabetical order you find may seem more like hieroglyphics than useful clues.

We have broken them down a list to get a solid idea of ​​what each set of characters means at the end. Don’t worry too much about memorizing, as you can always return to this list as a reference.

flat image of a black Nikon camera with a bright orange band on a black background

[Note: Expert Photography is supported by students. Product links in Expert Photography are referral links. If you use one of these and buy something, we make less money. Need more information? See how it all works here.]

What are the Abbreviations of the Lens?

Lens summaries are a set of initials usually found behind a focal point in the lens. You can find these shots printed on your lens bin. The initials will give you information about the properties and features of that particular lens.

These features include its autofocus drive, stabilization properties, and many more.

Let’s look at an example.

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 120-300MM F / 2.8E FL ED SR VR.

As you can see from the lens of the lens, there is information that you may be familiar with — the fixed width and the opening number. The whole set of summaries is also in the title, however.

In this example, we combine AF-S, FL, ED, SR and VR. I can tell you that the lens can focus automatically and has the ability to reduce vibration from this information. I would also say that there is a very low scattering and fluorite material used in the lens and a lens element that distorts the UV rays.

a close up shot of a Nikon lens and its listed abbreviations

Understanding Nikon Lens Abbreviations

Now you see that you can find valuable information in these summaries. Let’s dive deeper into the concepts you will encounter in your Nikon lens.

A – Manual focus lens. Found in the original bayonet lens since 1959. It is considered pre-AI.

ADR – Direct (A) hole (D) reading (R). This summary occurs as some Nikon lenses have a hanging prism that closes lens opening numbers. This was used in AI lenses in 1977.

AF-I – An autofocus lens (AF) with integrated (I) engine, which is not very focused. AF-I lenses are type D lenses. However, some older film organizations cannot automatically focus on them either.

AF-P – Autofocus lens (AF) with special printing presses. This default feature went live in 2015. We need a digital body with the latest firmware.

AF-S – An autofocus (AF) lens with a compact (S) wave coating, not too focused. It is a standard autofocus function for Nikon lenses.

AI – Default (A) indicator to open the top position (I). This is a mechanical device for attaching the lens to a camera exposure system. This is for hand-focused cameras and was launched in 1977.

AI-P – A variation of AI function. The lens has a built-in CPU that transmits meter data from the lens to the camera.

AI-S – Another variation of AI function. Designed to be used with shutter priority (S) exposure methods. This was made for hand-focused focus lenses.

ASP – This will have an aspherical lens (AS) feature in its visual design. Asherical lenses use complex curves to create lens elements to eliminate lens distortion and more.

a vintage Nikon film camera with a brown leather strap with Lens Abbreviations

C – Type of adhesive lenses for pre-AI lenses. Nikon coating integrated.

CRC – Close (C) range (R) correction (C).. This lens is designed to provide better focus on nearby distances.

CX – Nikon 1 camera lens without mirrors. This was introduced to the market in 2011.

D – It means that the lens adds distance (D) information to the data transferred to the body of camera.

DC – Defocus lens (D) control (C). This allows the photographer to adjust the degree of circular rotation in nonlinear areas.

DX – This is a standard abstract lens designed for cameras with small frames. DX lenses are for DSLR’s but can operate 35mm more bodies.

E – Electronic (E) aperture activation. This will mean that your lens does not have a physical connection to the camera’s opening position. Instead, it will use an electronic signal between the camera and the lens to control the entry point.

ED – Additional (E) low scattering material (D) is in this lens.

Fluids of FL – Fluorite (FL) are in this lens. Fluorite elements have a lighter weight than ordinary glass.

FX – 35mm full frame sensor lens. This refers to the power of the lens to cover the sensor of Nikon FX.

G – This will be the lens without the ring opening. You will need to control this internal camera.

HRI – High (H) refractive (R) index (I). A single HRI lens can give the same effect as a few standard glass objects. This is directly related to field curvature and spherical aberrations.

Nikon Lens Abbreviations: Nikon camera and two extra lenses sit on a map

Nikon Lens Summary: A Nikon camera with two additional lenses on the map

IF – Lenses use internal (I) focusing (F) rather than alter the elements of external lenses.

IX – A lens designed for the Pronea system.

N – Nano (N) adhesive. This lens will incorporate crystalline coating that eliminates the resistance of the lens element. This combination reduces ghosting and flare problems.

NIC – Nikon (N) compact (I) adhesive (C). The lens will feature a Nikon glass coating system that helps reduce rashes and ghosts.

PC – Watch lens (P) control (C). This means you can change the front of the lens to adjust the viewing angle.

PF – Category (P) fresnel (F). A type of diffraction optic that makes small lenses.

RF – Back (R) focus (F). This means that the lens focuses on moving its rear elements.

S-line – Top lens (S). Found in the Nikon mirrorless Z series.

SIC – Super (S) Combined (I) wear (C). It is usually found in complex zoom lenses.

Conclusion

In this list, we can see the importance of knowing these Nikon lens abbreviations. Every piece of technology that Nikon develops in its lenses will probably be summed up and shown in the lens bar. It is a great way to show off its features and add to the lens of the lens, almost like a military veteran showing his respect.

Now that you know what it all means, go with your lenses to get their qualities. Who knows, maybe there is a factor that leads you to explore a new style of photography.

50mm Lens
CategoriesBlog, Lens by

5 Reasons to Use a 50mm Lens for Landscape Photography

The 50mm prime lens, better known as the Nifty Fifty, is one of the most popular lenses of all time. But while photographers, event photographers, and street photographers love to capture 50mm primes, it is rare to find a country photographer packing a Nifty Fifty in their bag. In this article, I intend to explain why – and I hope to convince you that 50mm landscape lens lenses can be a star-studded concept. So without further ado, let’s look at five reasons why a 50mm lens is ideal for photography, starting with:

1. 50mm lenses help you focus on what is important

Focus length of 50mm is on the solid side – certainly no wide-angle! – and we often think of places as moving scenes that combine many features into a single frame.

But do all areas need a broader perspective? Can we capture the beauty of the environment around us with a solid package? I think so. For example, a hilly outdoor party with a lovely tree is more than enough to create a mind-blowing image without resorting to a wide-angle design.

Shooting the landscape with 50mm forces you to focus on the most important parts of the scene. You may be tempted to photograph everything – trees, rocks, front, back – with a single shot, but at 50mm, it can’t be done, and that’s a good thing.

the subject on a beach with a sea sponge

2. 50mm primes provide outstanding image quality

Land image lenses are sharpened from one corner to the other. After all, landscape photographs highlight even the smallest detail – the texture of autumn leaves, the rotation of sand on the beach – so it pays to maximize refinement.

Fortunately, 50mm primes are surprisingly sharp, especially at a cost. In my mind, they offer the best bang-for-your-buck sharpening of any lens on the market today. Of course, they do not open very well but stand up to f / 5.6 or higher, the image quality is good. And the smaller the entry points, the more you will be able to capture most of your landscape photos, which will still produce the best results.

underside of bridge

3. Lens 50mm primes

Since the 50mm is the main lens, you will get an extra advantage: The length of one focus means you can’t just shoot anywhere. Instead, you will need to move around to get the best angle and distance. This automatically forces you to think about your shooting, which is always a good thing.

By zooming in, you can adjust the length of the focus without thinking until the event is done in a positive way. But while you may end up with a decent shot, Nifty Fifty will give you the motivation to take a chance and try something different, whether it is a new angle, a different distance, or an unusual view. In fact, I recommend that you turn this thought process into a careful process if you are willing.

As soon as you are exploring an interesting subject, pull out your camera with its reliable 50mm diameter. Then put the watch finder in your eye and walk away. Just go back and forth around the incident and explore it in a few ways. While you are in it, go down and try to find the highest point.

city skyline panorama

4. Shoot wide-angle scenes

In previous sections, I emphasized the importance of separating one topic from strength. And I stand by what I said because 50mm is a good length to focus on very close landscape shots.

However, when you come to a stage that just cries out for a wider view, everything is not lost. Because you can really create wide angle images using a 50mm lens

By stitching together shots, we can create a panorama that gives us the wide field of view we're looking for

5. 50mm lenses are surprisingly lightweight and compact

If you are serious about taking pictures of the world, you are probably already around a huge amount of gear. Camera bodies, other lenses (you don’t come out with just one lens, right?), Tripods; the list goes on.

The last thing you need is a very heavy lens when you go out and walk, right? And it’s incredibly small, so it doesn’t take up space in your camera bag (and you can carry it in one pocket if you like).

50mm country photo: last words

All lenses with a fixed-length have advantages and disadvantages, and the case can be made sure to use a wide glass. But a 50mm prime lens is a great way to take pictures of the world, especially if you are a beginner; it will make you think differently about your photos, it will free you from the limits of heavy setting, and it will easily give you clear, sharp images.

A7III VS A7IV
CategoriesPhotography by

Sony A7 IV Versus the A7 III: Comparison

The Sony A7 range has long been a series of well-known cameras, reaching a fantastic space between speculation and price, and on October 21 at 3pm GMT / 10am EDT the new Sony Alpha A7 IV was unveiled.

The previous Alpha A7 III is one of the best-selling non-reflective cameras with a full frame, but about 4 years after its first launch, it is probably a little longer for birds.

Since the 47-year-old A7 III road price is much lower than the Sony A7 IV when it was launched, why not buy a new baby on the block? We bring you this in-depth comparison of Sony A7 IV vs A7 III to help you choose between the two.

Sensor

Sony A7 III has a 24.2 MP BackSide Illuminated (BSI) Exmor R that delivers still image quality and 4K video.
The 24-megapixel has become the epitome of the latest cameraless and mid-range cameras, with the highest megapixel counts set for premium flagship models.

Sony sensor

The A7 IV enhances the ante using the newly built 33 megapixel Exmor R BSI CMOS sensor, which is likely to be the sensor of choice for all Sony full-featured cameras as well as the front-end.

Processor

Sony A7 IV uses the latest BIONZ XR processor, as it was previously acquired on the Sony A7S III camera, which offers 15+ flexible range stops.

Sony processor

ISO speed

There is almost no choice between the two models here, both A7 III and A7 IV which offer the ISO range all the way up to ISO 204,800.

Video

A7IV provides 4K UHD video recording in XAVC SI format, up to 60fps at 4: 2: 2 color depth of 10-bit memory card inserted or over HDMI to external compatible third party records with long wavelength. GOP or All-Intra. coding.

4K / 30p video has been moderately extruded from 7K in full frame, but unfortunately 4K / 60p is taken in 4.8K in APS-C Super 35 mode.
So when it captures 4K at 30p, the camera uses full image sensor to capture over 7K value data, but at 60p, 1.5x throughput.
Supports S-Cinetone, HLG, S-Log3 and S-Log2 profiles. 4K / 60p recording or 10-bit recording is not available in the older A7 III and it uses 1.2x output on 4K / 30p video, and though the Super 35mm 4K / 60p on A7IV is disappointing, it is still a step great. forward from the Mark III camera.

Both can record Full 1080 HD up to 120fps, with dedicated slow and fast mode offering independent rates from 1fps to 120fps.
The A7 IV also has a few inherited features in the A7S III which set it apart from the A7 III. These include AF Speed ​​A7S III settings, no recording time at all, bright blue color, ability to shoot live videos, live streaming support, and dual recording of NTSC and PAL on a memory card without re-formatting it.

In addition, the one-touch movie button has been removed from its unfavorable location from the back of the A7 III to the top panel of the A7 IV.

Sony A7 IV supports Digital Audio Interface to allow the use of the ECM-B1M digital gun microphone. It also has a list of new video settings that you won’t find in A7III, which includes Breathing Compensation to help reduce breath-taking with some Sony lenses, Shockless White Balance to make manual adjustments to smooth white balance, Flexible Exposure Mode. switching between automatic and human exposure settings separately at the opening and shutter speed, as well as two types of Shot Marks to mark your favorite capture or scenes.

Look

A7IV inherits Creative Look pre-set images from JPEG images from A7S III and A1 models, and six additional ‘traditional’ key can be stored manually for quick access.

Automatic focus

The A7 IV auto focus system supports Real-time Tracking AF and human AF, animal and bird Eye, both vertical and animated, making it Sony’s first camera to provide full AF support for both shooting modes.

Sony autofocus
Price

One of the more controversial aspects of the new camera is the launch price of Sony A7 IV in Pakistan. Whilst the Sony A7 III price in Pakistan has been on the market for a few years now and has naturally declined in price, we still think that Sony is being somewhat over-ambitious with the A7 IV.

It’s no longer the “entry-level” model that it’s predecessor clearly was – instead the A7 III will continue in that role (Sony always carry on selling previous models), along with the more compact Alpha A7C.

Conclusion

Creating the successor to one of the most popular full-frame cameras of recent years was always going to be a difficult task, especially at a time of rising prices and component shortages.

A lot has changed in the four years since the A7 III was released, and it’s clear that the new Mark IV is a much more capable hybrid camera than its predecessor, on paper at least.

lens shops in Pakistan
CategoriesBlog, Photography by

Fast Lens: what is It, and Why Does It matter?

Do you need to understand what a fast lens in reality is? And are you wondering whether or not you have to be the use of fast lenses in your images?
You’ve come to the right area.

What is a quick lens in photography?

A fast lens refers to a lens with an extensive maximum aperture.

Note: A lens’s aperture refers to a hole inside the lens, which opens and closes depending for your camera settings. A huge aperture has sure computer graphics, and those are the handiest offered by means of speedy lenses.

Now, wide apertures correspond to low f-numbers, including f/1.four, f/1.8, and f/2.8. slender aperture correspond to excessive f-numbers, which include f/5.6, f/eight, and f/16. So if you see a lens with f/1.eight or f/2.8 in its call, you realize that it’s a fast lens; if you see a lens with f/five.6 in its name, you realize that it’s a slow lens.

what is a fast lens three lenses with apertures

Why does lens velocity matter?

Fast lenses include two major benefits:

1. Speedy lenses allow you to use speedy shutter speeds
a quick lens offers a huge aperture, and a extensive aperture allows greater light – so that you can seize nicely-uncovered snap shots at the same time as using a quicker shutter speed (in comparison to a slower lens, where you’ll need to lessen the shutter pace to get well-uncovered photographs, all else being identical).

In fact, that’s in which the time period “speedy lens” comes from; such lenses are so named because they permit for faster shutter speeds.
notice that a quick lens can also preserve the ISO down, which prevents noise. If you can widen the aperture, you don’t need to enhance the ISO for an excellent exposure, especially at night time.

2. Rapid lenses create shallow intensity of field results
the wider the lens aperture, the shallower the depth of discipline.

This will be a good way to dispose of distractions from a scene, plus it just gives an exciting innovative appearance.
Of path, if you choose to paintings without shallow intensity of subject results, you may; simply stop down the lens beyond f/4 or so, and the window of sharpness on your pictures will expand swiftly.

 

Should you use a fast lens?

Fast lenses are great in positive conditions, plus they offer lots of shooting flexibility. however do you actually need a fast lens to your digicam bag? Or is it occasionally an unnecessary effect?

In truth, speedy lenses can be burdensome, for a few key motives.

There also are sure forms of macro shooters who usually use f/8 and past, so an f/2.eight aperture is generally wasted.

group of lenses

Fast lenses: why should you use them?

To complete this dialogue at the value of speedy lenses as opposed to slow lenses, I desired to say some photographic genres wherein speedy lenses are relatively beneficial, in addition to some genres where rapid lenses are pointless.
right here’s the listing of genres that thrive off of rapid lenses:
• wildlife images
• Portrait images
• sports activities pictures
• road photography
• event photography
• Astrophotography
After all, fast lenses are best for situations with low-mild hand-held capturing and shifting topics.

• panorama photography
• Macro images
• Architectural photography

In the above genres, shooting with an f/4 lens must paintings just excellent!

Optimistically, you presently feel like a fast lens expert, and you genuinely recognize whether or not they’re proper for you!

What do you like to shoot, and way will a fast lens help? Share your thoughts in the comments underneath!

RF 5.2mm f/2.8L
CategoriesBlog, Lens, Photography by

Canon’s Dual Fisheye Virtual Reality Lens, the RF 5.2mm f/2.8L

Canon has launched a single-lens EOS R camera i.e. RF 5.2mm f / 2.8L Dual Fisheye lens, which looks as strange as it sounds:
Also check the lens again, this time installed on the Canon EOS R5:

So what’s this strange new lens? What is its purpose?

Canon RF 5.2mm f / 2.8L is designed for virtual reality recording; “It is the world’s first dynamic digital double lens that can shoot stereoscopic 3D 180 ° VR images into a single image sensor.” In other words, twin fisheye lenses provide two frames that cover a large viewing field as a whole; when processed, this image turns into a single, 180-degree image, with the right tool

Canon has worked hard, providing a product with an outstanding form – for filmmakers who travel or who prefer to reduce the size of the kit – as well as weather resistance, a very good f / 2.8 input, and most importantly, a built-in filter system. within Canon. The latter allows you to use neutral density filters (ND) when recording, which is important for sensitive video photographers.

Unfortunately, the processing of two fish images is not done with standard editing software. Canon develops a number of programs that can handle VR images: the Premiere Pro plugin, and VR Utility.

So who should think about buying this new lens? Good question, and no easy answer. Canon’s decision to roll out a dedicated VR lens raises a growing interest in creating VR content. But the day when most videos watched with VR technology seems far away, at least where I sit.
That being said, if VR recording sounds interesting, you should at least check out this new lens.

Are you interested in this new lens? Share your thoughts in the comments below!